Entranced By St. Giles’ Cathedral And Hopelessly in Love With Edinburgh
by Emma Williams
In Edinburgh the rain comes and goes quickly, small puddles on the ground and droplets upon your head are sometimes the only evidence it actually happened. I don’t mind - I’ve always been a pluviophile, lover of rain and all things dreary. I particularly enjoy being out in Edinburgh on days like these, where one moment you behold a magnificent beam of sunlight streaming through the Scott monument and the next great dark clouds gathering above the moody, solemn castle.
It is interesting to walk from New Town to Old, and it seems quite impossible that around every corner lurks something even more meticulously detailed than what you witnessed only moments before. New Town is booming with businesses; designer and chain shops, elegant restaurants and vegan cafes sit all along Princes Street and George Street. I think you could find just about anything you could want easily in this area of the city. After staying for quite awhile in Iceland where many items were unavailable, the thought of everything being at my fingertips was a little too exciting, and I found myself shopping a bit more than intended those first few days. I was especially happy when I came across a Jo Malone perfume shop and could not convince my feet to continue walking without taking a peek inside.
I travelled to Portugal when I was eighteen where I purchased a small bottle of Jo Malone Poppy and Barley perfume knowing instantly it was my favorite scent. I have been unwilling to pay the high price to restock my supply in the United States, especially when the price was so affordable in Portugal. Since it is made in London I had hoped it wouldn’t be too expensive in neighboring Scotland… Well, we won’t talk about that - just know I am now the happy owner of my favorite scent once again. Once it reminded me of warm beaches and orange groves in Armacao de Pera, but will now remind me of rainy days and moody gloom.
New Town isn’t just trendy shops and chic hotels and bars, though. A stroll to the Walter Scott monument, which really could not be easily missed, may make one feel as though they have stepped into a painting, or perhaps a gothic flick depending on the mood of the day. The particular spot I’m thinking of overlooks the park at its base, between the monument and the National Galleries of Scotland where people sprawl out on blankets in lush green grass or the hillside. Lovers walk the path hand in hand and all types of dogs run alongside their folk. Somewhere nearby a man played the bagpipes. I thought to myself at that moment that I was looking at a painting in the National Gallery from whence I just came, with its glorious scenes hung in gilded gold frames. The gothic monument loomed in the background of the scene, a perfect meeting of modern and historic in one frame.
Old Town is a busy and bustling place made up of centuries old buildings and cathedrals, talented street buskers and on Saturdays, an abundance of brides. We saw at least four women in ceremonial white in one day being photographed on Princess Street, near St. Giles Cathedral, in front of the castle. Edinburgh Castle sits at the heart of Old Town, or rather at the top of Castlehill which leads down into High Street where I have never seen so many cashmere shops in my life - that is most certainly not a complaint. If I am to be surrounded by tourist shops on all sides, let them be filled with cashmere and tweed. I fell immediately in love with a cashmere jacket, one which hangs down to the thigh, is snug at the waist, fastened up by big buttons and silk-lined. I want the dark green one, or the red, or maybe the blue. Perhaps one day I will be able to justify the expense but for now the price was enough to send me on my way again.
St. Giles’ Cathedral, built in 1124, stands tall where Parliament Square meets High street. Built in 1124?! The cathedral has completely captured my thoughts. In all honesty, I didn’t know anything about it before I was there, standing right in front of it. I’ve come across some of my favorite memories and experiences in traveling this way, with minimal planning. The exterior of the building displays strength, solid craftsmanship and impeccable design with intricate stonework, outstanding spires and a steeple shaped like a crown for the Scottish Monarchy. It’s all rather regal. The interior is more serene, and I found myself standing still for several moments below royal blue ceilings and pillars that demand your attention. Breathtaking stained glass windows cast rainbows of light upon the stone of the walls and the flags which hang from them. I could have watched the light dance on the stone for hours, entranced by the occasional glimmer that danced off the gold fixations on the ceiling. I will doubtlessly say again and again how beautiful Scotland is and how stunned I am constantly by the architecture, but St. Giles’ has not left my mind since entering it weeks ago. I know I must go back, and am counting the days until I return.
After hours and hours of walking around, up unexpected stone staircases and hills, down slippery streets and around fascinating cemeteries as they pop up, one gets very hungry. After a slight learning curve, it is understood that one does need to think ahead and make a booking for dinner at many places in Edinburgh, even on weekdays. That, or start eating earlier dinners.
Mowgli Street Food has easily become a favorite of mine, and after visiting another location in Brighton, I’ve determined Edinburgh remains number one. The interior of the restaurant is magical - no other descriptor works. Rope swings with wooden seats hang alongside wooden tables and booths; the entire room is decorated by warm twinkling lights and lanterns with magnificent chandeliers hanging from the ornately decorated ceilings. There are vines and barren trees in the space, and brass touches here and there - it was like stepping into an enchantment. And what’s better than a beautiful space to dine? Food that makes you want to stand up and dance and when you’ve finished, melt into the nearest couch and sleep, pleasantly filled and comforted flavors are not easily forgotten. We ordered the treacle tamarind fries, sweet and tangy potato cubes that I am still thinking about, the Mowgli sticky chicken which was sweet and spicy and crunchy and everything good and tea steeped chickpeas, an interesting and light tasting dish the likes of which I’ve never experienced before. The portion sizes are ideal; small enough to share or order multiple things because you simply cannot choose just one. A moment of appreciation for the offering of a gluten free and vegan menu as well please, though this has been the case in most of the restaurants here in Scotland.
Speaking of delicious food in Edinburgh, my mom and I enjoyed a nice and comforting meal at Element, a relaxed Bistro on Rose Street. Rose Street, much like the other popular streets of New Town is known for shopping and nightlife, offering many bars and restaurants as well. It was a Friday night and after striking out at many restaurants with long waits we lucked out here. We sat at the bar while we waited for a table. The bar was bustling, with bartenders shaking, mixing and pouring all while entertaining guests. It was very festive and felt good there, like everyone was happy and enjoying themselves. One shot of gin for my mom and a shot of whiskey for me later, we were seated in comfortable seats and made our order; a burger for me and a vegan and gluten free mushroom gnocchi dish for Mom. Again, basking in the excitement that many restaurants here offer gluten and dairy free dishes, and ones that are good and interesting!
Most days I spend in Edinburgh results in walking over 20,000 steps, and at the end of the day nothing feels better than getting comfortable and settling in for the night. I look at my boots by the door and ponder for a moment all of the places they have taken me, and wonder where they have yet to travel to.