The Hat

by Leslie Shalduha

I strolled along the bustling city streets under a clear, bright blue sky, on my way to meet the tram that would take me to Aker Brygge waterfront. Emma and I had planned a rendezvous to catch a ferry to the island of Nakholmen. In days prior, we had explored the islands scattered in the fjord just off the city of Oslo, by ferry; we found Nakholmen to be the one that spoke to our souls. We wandered on meandering pathways of crushed stone and white cedar hedgerows; tiny, colorful Norwegian summer cabins were interspersed amongst gardens bursting with color. We happened upon a sweet knoll with a little wooden bench under an aspen with fluttering leaves. She spread her limbs wide, offering shade to us, a respite after traipsing under the hot July sun. We came often, sometimes bringing along snacks or an ice cold cola, bought at the only little store on the island. Following the perimeter of the island, we investigated the rocky beaches and coves, pausing to discuss the strengths and perceived weaknesses of each unique place. We discovered our idyllic place and returned several times over the next week, until our travels took us elsewhere in Norway.

I left our lodging early enough to stop for breakfast at a marvelous place, Cultivate Foods, a vegan cafe; it opened unexpectedly late that day so I carried on down the street. To my delight, Brauð Toastbar, another favorite, was open. I looked both ways before stepping onto the teeming city streets, filled with folks on scooters, bikes, trams and busses and hurried across. I lay claim to a seat with my bag before going to the front to order my breakfast. My usual, Frankie’s Plate, toast topped with avocado, poached egg, bacon, tomato and sprouts, is eaten with knife and fork properly, reminding me of my sweet cousin each time, who eats all of her meals in just such a way. I savored this tasty meal with a big cup of strong, hot black tea, while reading my book, which stood propped just right in the window. The busy city scene enveloped me, snippets of chatter drifting past as folk wandered by, the clatter of forks and knives on plates, the hiss of an espresso machine; fascinating people, in flowery dresses and linen suits walked by the window at which I sat, making their way through the crowds with ease. After this enjoyable repast, I joined the throngs, headed for the tram. 

I considered how a hat would be most welcome, thinking ahead to the relentlessly bright sun that would beat down upon me at the beach. Alas, most places were closed on that sunny Sunday, making it very unlikely that I should find a shop to buy a hat. As I lamented not being better prepared, what did fortuitously appear before me but a street vendor on the corner, selling hemp sun hats and bags. I stopped by to ponder if I had enough cash on me to procure my heart’s desire. I happened to have a few Norwegian kroners on me but unsure if it was the correct amount, I shoved them back in my wallet to leave, shy suddenly, to look a fool in front of the vendor. Seeing me preparing to leave, the vendor stopped me, waved his arm over the wares and said something I did not understand. I said to him that I did not have enough kroners and showed him the two paper bills. He said, “No problem, I give you a discount.” At this point, I felt compelled to choose a hat, trusting in his honesty. Placing this hat and that upon my head while looking in the mirror, I made my choice, handed over the cash and sauntered to the tram. As I waited, I texted Emma a pic of this new addition to my life and asked her how much I just paid for the pleasure. My trust in the vendor was not misplaced - he had indeed given me a discount of $9. 

Emma and I met at the busy ferry terminal as planned and joined the line of folks waiting to board the vessel. Once aboard, we settled in to enjoy the scenery as the vessel made its various stops. Upon our arrival at Nakholmen, we made our way to the beach that had become our favored spot. We lay our towels atop the slabs of gray rock to bathe in the sun, the snazzy hat over my face to shade already sunburned skin. To cool ourselves, we waded into the sun-warmed shallow water with sandals to protect our feet from the rough sea bottom of jagged shell pieces and rock or jumped off the pier to swim in the depths of the salty, cold water of the fjord. After soaking up our fill of sun and salt, we walked across the island to the public bathroom, located in a classic Norwegian wooden structure, to change out of our wet suits. We had some time to wait for the next ferry so sat at a picnic table, watching the lovely barnacle geese that inhabit this island. After a bit of time we made our way to the ferry landing, boarded on its arrival and enjoyed a relaxing ride back to the mainland. 

As we were walking off the ferry, Emma said “Mom! Where is your hat?” I felt instant panic, realization dawning with the image of my hat sitting atop the paper towel holder in the bathroom back on the island. We turned around, walking against the flow of crowds leaving the ferry and found seats. Groaning inwardly, I tried to think positive thoughts – Nakholmen is not very populated so the chances were very good the hat would be right where I left it. The ferry made its slow journey through the fjord, a stop here and a stop there, before arriving finally at the island of lost hats. 

We disembarked and hurried across the island to the bathroom. The moment had arrived – would we open the door to emotional devastation or gleeful delight? I climbed the wooden stairs slowly, placed my hand upon the door and paused, suddenly afraid to find the answer. Emma, never one to enjoy dramatic pauses like myself, exclaimed “Open the door, Mom!” I eased it open, peeking inside……...and there it was! The lovely hemp hat! My salvation! An enormous smile broke over my face as I reached for the hat and joyfully placed it atop my head; a happy ending to yet another day in the life of our Norwegian adventure.

And that, my friends, is the long and short of it; may it bring you a giggle or two and offer a bit of light-hearted silliness to your day.